JEREZ DE LOS CABALLEROS

THE MIGHTY TEMPLAR FORTRESS


In Extremadura, within the province of Badajoz and surrounded by peaceful meadows, there is a beautiful and peaceful town. The whitewashed houses, the silence surrounding it, and its solemn towers are silent witnesses of a deserved peace achieved after years of conflicts. And it is true that throughout the Middle Ages, Jerez de Los Caballeros was the site of bloody wars against Muslims that ended with the reconquest of the town. The Christian victory came about thanks to the efforts of the Templar Knights, a recognised honour that is associated with the name of the city to this day.


After conquering the Muslim city of "Xerixa" in 1230, King Alfonso IX of León handed it over to the Templar Knights. They built an extensive wall surrounding the town and a walled fortress at the town´s highest point. This fortress was built on top of an old Muslim citadel of which some traces remain. From this fortress, we will enjoy spectacular views of the city and of the fertile plains of the river Ardila that stretch to infinity. Come on!


This 13th-century fortification is worth a visit not just for its breathtaking panoramic views but also for its medieval and mythical look. Its walled perimeter is shaped like an irregular pentagon, with a tower dominating each wall´s angles. Two of these towers, the Veleta and Armas, have been incorporated into a subsequent structure that now houses the Town Hall of Jerez de Los Caballeros. Although it may sound odd, the town hall sits on the esplanade in-side the Templar fortress.


The Torre del Homenaje (Homage Tower), the Torre del Carbón (Coal Tower) and the Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower) complete the walled perimeter of the fortress. Of all the towers, the most beautiful is the Clock Tower, an original defensive tower to which, a few centuries later, an upper body was added to house a clock and a belfry. The Clock Tower is crowned with an impressive statue of Jesus Christ with open arms that embrace the whole city from above.


Walking around the fortress, we will enjoy the different views offered by its different angles. From here, we can admire the beautiful town, its extensive walls and its white houses. Among all this stands out the unfinished tower of the Church of Santa María de la Encarnación (St. Marie of the Incarnation ) and its dome crowned by a pinnacle. And before us and with great serenity, a whole sea of pastures that fade away in the distance until the foothills of Sierra Morena.


Address:
Jerez de los Caballeros Castle
Plaza Alcazaba 2
06380- Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

THE DELICIOUS TURKISH BUN


The gastronomy of Extremadura is well-known for its diversity. Within Extremadura´s cui-sine, Jerez´s cuisine stands out, characterised by the large number of local products used to prepare each recipe, all of which are of the highest quality. Among the typical dishes of Jerez include recipes such as Migas (bread crumbs with lard and meat), Caldereta(type of stew), tomato soup or stewed partridge. Many of these dishes use ingredients from the region of Jerez, such as wild asparagus, snails, mushrooms, beef, lamb or Iberian pork.


Among the local delicacies, there are also cheeses, oils, wines and sweets. And speaking of sweets ... we are pleased to present the most delicious temptation from Jerez. Dear travellers, let us introduce you to the Turkish bun!


During our visit to Jerez de Los Caballeros, we will find this delicacy in any bakery or pastry shop in the city. They sell it in family size or as convenient individual portions. It is almost omnipresent as it is the most iconic and representative sweet of this town.


Although there are no written documents on the origin of this sweet, there is no dispute today that it was in Jerez de Los Caballeros that the Turkish bun originated. Thanks to oral tradi-tion, we know that the recipe for this sweet, eaten in Jerez after the Christian reconquest of the town and the Templars, imported it. After the Templar period in Jerez, the consumption of this sweet became so widespread among the inhabitants that it has survived to the present day with such popularity that the Turkish bun is almost a symbol of Jerez de Los Caballeros.


It is precisely its ingredients that indicate the Templar background of the Turkish pastry. Its recipes use mainly almonds, eggs, and sugar, widely used in sweets in the Middle East, where the Order of the Templars came from. After the loss of Jerusalem, the Templar Knights travelled to different places, taking their customs with them. And among them, the ingredi-ents of their sweets.


The recipe itself is simple to make, and the base is always the same. Still, each bakery has its own secret that gives the Turkish roll its own unique "special touch", like a characteristic sign of identity of the establishment. But all the Jerez bakers agree that one of the secrets is to make it with lots and lots of love...


Be sure to try the Turkish roll, the most popular of all Jerez sweets with oriental origins!

IBERIAN FEAST


The meadows are the main characters in Extremadura´s environment. These plains, scattered with holm oaks and cork oaks, stretch across the countryside like enormous carpets of grass and pasture. They cover vast tracts of land with their green mantle and small ponds. These plains are the ideal environment for the Iberian pigs to graze freely on the vast grasslands. In the Extremaduran pastures, the pigs feed on fresh grass and acorns of the holm oaks and quench their thirst in the natural pools. And complementing this healthy, quality life, the pigs walk many kilometres every day in search of food, which improves their lean muscles and thus the quality of their meat.


The Iberian pigs grow in an excellent and healthy environment thanks to the meadows of Extremadura, and its freshness is reflected in the high-quality products it provides us with. In the southern regions of the province of Badajoz, there are spectacular pastures that are the cradle of the "Dehesa de Extremadura" Designation of Origin. Jerez de Los Caballeros is a significant producer of Iberian products under this protected designation of origin in one of these regions.


A famous saying states, " even the pig´s feet", meaning that nothing from this animal is wast-ed. Many pork-based products can be found in the shops of Jerez de Los Caballeros, all of which are of the highest quality. But for now, we will focus on Iberian ham to have some knowledge that will help us buy this delicacy during our visit to Jerez de Los Caballeros.


To be designated an Iberico(Iberian), a pig must have at least 50% Iberian genes, with the 100% Iberian grade being the most prized. However, the animal´s diet, in addition to the breed´s purity, impacts its quality, which is higher if the pig was raised in the pastures eating grass and acorns rather than being fed on pig-feed in farms. When these variables are com-bined, ham can be classified into four categories, reflected in the colours on its label. The label might be white, green, red, or black as the quality improves. Acorn-fed pig hams are identified by a red or black label, with the black label indicating 100 % breed purity. It should be noted that the four categories are of varying quality, and each one has a distinct flavour and texture.


Our trip to Jerez provides an excellent opportunity to purchase Iberian ham, which is available in convenient vacuum-packed envelopes that take up almost little room and are suitable for gifts or, even better, treat yourself to this delight.

THE GIRALDA FROM JEREZ


Because of its five enormous towers that jut to the sky and defiantly breaking the flat horizon of the meadows, Jerez de Los Caballeros is known as the "City of Towers." Together with the fortress´s clock tower, the towers are owned by the churches of Saint Bartholomew, St Michael the Archangel, Santa Maria of the Incarnation, and St Catherine. The tower of the church of Saint Bartholomew is the most distinctive of them all, but it is also the most beautiful. Let´s get to know this gem, whose façade and the tower will serve as the ideal backdrop for our photos.


The church of San Bartolomé that we enjoy today dates from the mid-15th century, hence its Gothic features, and was extended during the 16th and 17th centuries in a pronounced Ba-roque style. It was built over an old hermitage raised by the Templars in the 13th century, taking advantage of the remains of a primitive Visigothic temple, which was also dedicated to San Bartolomé, patron saint of the city.


The current church´s interior is essential, but walking through its three naves reveals various surprises. One of them is a stunning gilded organ in the choir that shines out against the so-briety of the white and dominant grey inside the temple. The Comendadores Chapel, which houses the bones of Vasco Nuñez de Balboa and his wife Beatriz Bravo, is also located with-in the chapel. Finally, the best-kept secret... This is one of the rare churches in Spain with a devil’s image inside. Of course, he´s tethered!


But what is spectacular about the Church of San Bartolomé is its exterior. The ensemble formed by its façade and tower creates one of the most emblematic settings in Jerez de Los Caballeros. Its main façade is a decorative feast with Corinthian pilasters and Solomonic col-umns combined with polychrome tiles and blue ceramic pieces adding colour and brightness. The tile decoration reminds us of the proximity of Jerez de Los Caballeros to Portugal.


It was precisely this proximity to Portugal that caused the original tower of the church to be demolished during the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. The current tower was erected in 1759, taking advantage of the base left standing after the incident and following the same baroque style as the façade. Its 60 metres in height and its colourful decoration make it the most eye-catching tower in the city. All the ornaments are concentrated in the bell tower, fine plaster-work with coloured ceramic pieces that look like little pieces of sky decorating the top. Its quadrangular base, different sections, and style with Mudejar art details remind us of the Giralda in Seville. It is a real beauty!


Address:
Church of Saint Bartholomew
Llano San Bartolomé Street 8
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

A BRAVE BETRAYED´S CRADLE


Many Spaniards set out to traverse the Atlantic Ocean around the end of the 15th century, facing fears and dangers they had never encountered before. Many of these explorers and conquerors were born in Extremadura and left their homeland to pursue prosperity and distant paradises. The Extremaduran cities where these historical figures were born currently make up the Route of the Conquerors, a journey to showcase the lands that saw the dreams of these discoverers emerge. This route includes Jerez de Los Caballeros, which contributed 172 explorers to the American adventure, including notable personalities like Vasco Núñez de Balboa and Pedro Portocarrero.


These men wanted to try their fortune by embarking on an adventure where they could gain a lot or lose absolutely everything. And it was precisely the latter that happened to the most famous resident of Jerez de Los Caballeros, Vasco Núñez de Balboa, a man of noble origins who wanted to make a fortune but who had to confront the greatest human venom, envy.


Born in Jerez around 1475, he is known to have learned to read and write, fenced, and was a member of the Order of Santiago. During his adolescence, he was a squire for Pedro Portocarrero, Lord of Moguer, with whom he pursued his desire for adventure. In 1500, he undertook an expedition after being encouraged by his lord. As a result, he embarked on an adventurous life of journeys around the Caribbean lands and Seas. Vasco Nunez de Balboa discovered the Pacific Ocean on September 29, 1513, after crossing the lands of modern-day Panama. On reaching these waters, he entered them with an image of the Virgin Mary in his hands. He took possession of this sea for the Crown of Castile, christening it the South Sea and giving the inlet the name of the Gulf of San Miguel, as the discovery took place on the day of the Archangel´s feast day.


This kind of success sparked a lot of envy, which led to conspiracies, and Vasco Nuñez de Balboa got caught up in one of them, where he was accused of plotting against the Crown. Despite his efforts to defend himself, he was executed for treason in 1519 at 44.


His image is still well-known in his homeland and in Panama, which has named its currency and national beer Balboa in his honour. In Jerez de Los Caballeros, where he was born, there is a museum devoted to him. It is a historic mansion converted into an interpretation centre dedicated to this conqueror who reached a milestone that transformed maps, navigation charts, and how people think about the world, which condemned him to death with an unfor-givable end for history.


Address:
Vasco Núñez De Balboa House Museum
Oliva Street 12
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

VISIT DE BLOODY TOWER….


The Torre del Homenaje (Homage Tower) is the highest tower in Jerez de los Caballeros´ Templar fortification. It is also known as the Torre Sangrienta (Bloody Tower) due to a cruel event that took place within its walls in the 14th century. Attached to the wall and lo-cated in the lowest part of the fortress, it is an impressively sturdy structure. But what is im-pressive is to know what happened there...


The Order of the Temple was founded in Jerusalem in 1118 to protect Christian pilgrims to the Holy Land. Over time, this military order grew in power, presenting a solid hierarchical structure that depended on the Holy See. On the Pope´s order, the Order of the Temple was also established in the Iberian Peninsula to help the Christian kingdoms fight against the Muslims.


However, in 1312, Pope Clement V issued a papal bull ordering the immediate destruction of the Order of the Temple. The reason? Everything points to the Pope acting under pressure from King Philip IV of France, who owed the Templars a large sum of money. As a result, when this military order was disbanded, its creditor vanished, and the organisation´s substan-tial assets went into royal control.


The bull forced all European Knights Templar to obey it, leave the order, and deliver over their property to their respective kingdoms. Those who did not comply will be charged with heresy and put on trial by the Holy Inquisition! Many people gave up to escape capital pun-ishment, while others, such as Encomienda of Jerez de Los Caballeros, resolved to battle until the bitter end.


The Templars of Jerez barricaded themselves in the fortress, refusing to renounce their order. They bravely withstood the siege of the royal troops for days but ended up being cornered in the Torre del Homenaje (Homage Tower). The so-called "Last Templars" ended up losing this battle. Many died fighting, and those who survived the attack were finally beheaded, and their bodies were thrown from the battlements of the fortress. Creepy!


Blood and sadness flooded this tower, which has been known ever since as the Sangrienta Tower. All the knights who died that day had previously promised to return one day gallop-ing to the Holy Land. Since then, a legend has it that on moonless nights, the souls of these knights wander around the fortress whistling from beyond the grave to call their horses. No-body has seen them, but some swear that the whistles can be heard among the battlements. It is the legend of "The sad whistles".


Do you dare to enter the Bloody Tower after knowing about the history of the Last Templars and the folklore that goes with it? After entering through a small door and ascending a spiral staircase, their only room awaits them, revealing the last panorama seen by those Templar´s eyes through the gaps.


Address:
Homage Tower or Bloody Tower
Castle of Jerez de los Caballeros
Plaza Alcazaba 2
06380- Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

BURGO´S DOOR GUARDIAN


As we´ve seen, Jerez de Los Caballeros has a rich architectural past that includes ecclesiastical structures, military structures, and palatial residences that incorporate elements of several creative forms. We´ve discussed its riches, but we haven´t yet told you about another im-portant jewel in Jerez: its wall.


The Jerez wall, built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century and surrounds the ancient city, including the part of its layout that defends the fortress, has a perimeter of 1700 meters. Eighteen of the original Templar wall´s 26 towers remain today, with many of them fully in-tegrated into the modern urban layout. There were six gates on the original wall, and only two of them have remained to this day. The Puerta de la Villa and the Puerta de Burgos are the two main attractions in this area, with the latter being one of the most important.


The Puerta de Burgos is an impressive crenellated masonry complex formed by a keep and a stretch of wall with a pointed arch that serves as an entrance. We can see that the tower has a circular and a square side as we walk around it. Templarios Street and Vasco Nuñez de Bal-boa Street, the two streets that lead to intramurals from the Puerta de Burgos, are parallel and both connect to Plaza de España.


If the Burgos gate is stunning, the history of the historical figure who is depicted in front of the castle complex by a serious statue with a sword in his chest is even more so. It´s a tribute to Hernando de Soto, the Mississippi River´s discoverer and one of the first explorers to enter modern-day Florida.


Hernando de Soto was born in the year 1500 in Extremadura. However, it is still debated whether he was born in Jerez de Los Caballeros or Barcarrota. After amassing a large fortune on his first expeditions to Central America, he wanted to explore the Florida area, fascinated by the mysterious stories that came from there. In 1539, he arrived in Tampa and embarked on a voyage searching for gold, which he never discovered. He explored the present states of Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Arkansas, and Louisiana for years, finding a massive river that he dubbed the Rio Grande but the indigenous called Meatt-Massip (hence Mississippi).


Hernando de Soto died of typhoid fever in 1542 without his two greatest wishes being ful-filled. He never found the treasures he was looking for and could not be buried next to his mother in the Jerez church of San Miguel Arcángel, as he had requested in his will. After his death, his crew tied his body to a log and threw it into the Mississippi to prevent the natives from desecrating his corpse... Quite an end for such a brave explorer!


Hernando de Soto could not be buried in Jerez de Los Caballeros, but at least he will be eter-nally present in his land thanks to this everlasting homage.


Address:
Burgos Gate and Monument to Hernando de Soto
Templarios Street 39
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

A TOUR THROUGH JEREZ´S TREASURES


Jerez de Los Caballeros possesses one of Extremadura´s most important monumental heritage, which led to its designation as a Historic-Artistic Site in 1966. Its riches are built mainly on a significant number of religious structures, including many churches, hermitages, and convents. All these religious works were erected due to a solid religious fervour that began at the end of the 15th century, which spread during the 16th century and led to the arrival of nine religious´ communities in the town.


The Order of Santiago, backed by Jerez de Los Caballeros´ noble and wealthy families, was the principal proponent of religious building construction and repair in the city. All of the ecclesiastical structures built during this period share an overlap of architectural and artistic styles, including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements.


To enjoy some of the jewels of Jerez, we have prepared a short route ideal for walking and designed to discover some of its architectural treasures, both religious and ancestral homes, while walking through its white streets. Our walk is less than 500 metres long and can be done in about twenty minutes.


Our journey begins in the Plaza de España. We take the short Doctor Benitez Street, just in front of the church tower, which leads us to St Agustin Street, which constitutes almost the entire route that we will walk. The Convent of St Agustin, whose interior is formed around a beautiful patio with arcaded galleries and houses a lovely well, appears a few metres after starting the descent down Calle San Agustín. This building currently houses the St. Agustin Cultural Center.


We arrive at the St Agustin square after going past the monastery, presided over by two elegant cypress trees that guard an imposing transept. To the left of the monument, the man-sion of the Lords of Higuera de Vargas has some lovely wrought-iron balconies. We pro-ceed down St Agustin Street until we see the Rianzuela Palace on our right, which has a beautiful white marble family coat of arms on its main door.


We follow Luis de Sotomayor and Terrazas street, which leads us immediately to the main jewel of this walk, St Maria of the Incarnation Church, which boasts the city´s most discreet tower, just in front of the Rianzuela Palace´s front entrance. This church is the oldest in Jerez, having been built in the Visigothic style and dating back to 556.


Surrounding this temple, we´ll have some great views of the Templar Castle, which is the grand reward for walking this route, which has taken us through Jerez´s gems, such as con-vents, churches, towers, and palatial houses, while crossing white streets.


Addresses:
Spain Square
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz


St Agustín Convent (St Agustín Cultural Center)
Plaza San Agustín 1
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz


House of the Lords of Higuera de Vargas
San Agustín Street 15
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz


Rianzuela Palace
28 San Agustín Street
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz


Church of St Marie of the Incarnation
Plaza Sta. María 2A
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz

UNDER THE PROTECTIVE ARCHANGEL´S WINGS


Without a doubt, one of the greatest spots to stop for a brief break is a central plaza, where you can sit and watch the residents come and go while admiring the city´s most beautiful monument. The Plaza de España and the monument, the Church of St Michel the Archan-gel, are located in Jerez de Los Caballeros and are home to another of Jerez´s famous towers.


The Plaza de España in Jerez is a pedestrian esplanade surrounded by white buildings with palm trees, lampposts, fountains, and seats, making it a perfect place to pause and view the daily activity of Jerez de Los Caballeros. It also boasts several establishments with patios where you may rest and recover if needed. Whatever point we choose, we will observe the Plaza de España´s main protagonists, the church of St Michel the Archangel and its beautiful tower.


Jerez de Los Caballeros came under the Crown´s sovereignty after the Order of the Temple was disbanded by papal mandate in 1312. However, another religious-military order known as the Order of Santiago took over afterwards. The Knights of Santiago started the construc-tion of this church. We can find various styles, as its construction began in the Gothic style in the 15th century and ended in the Baroque style, which predominates the overall work.


Before enjoying a well-deserved rest, we recommend that you visit the temple´s interior, pos-sibly the most beautiful and richest in the city, which is very different from the plain white-washed exterior. A dome crowns its Latin Cross layout with a spectacular fresco depicting the Holy Trinity. Three monumental baroque altarpieces dedicated to the Archangel Michael and the Four Evangelists occupy the apses. On the choir stalls and above the Grand Master´s chair, we find the Cross of the Order of Saint James carved on the choir stalls and, right there, to the left of the choir, you can see the damage caused by the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755 on the wall.


Outside, you will see a 64-metre-high bell tower that stands on a 16th-century square base made of ashlar masonry and serves as an atrium. From the second section onwards, the Ba-roque decoration begins, adorning the bell tower and the superb brick and beautifully tiled top of the tower, the work on which was completed in 1749. And crowning the tower, the protective Archangel Michael, the great enemy of Satan, watches over us all from on high.


This magnificent temple, which has the appearance of a collegiate church and is as gorgeous as its name, awaits us in Jerez de Los Caballeros´ central Plaza de España to guard us as we enjoy the ambience of Jerez.


Address:
Church of San Miguel Arcángel
Plaza España 4
06380 - Jerez de los Caballeros, Badajoz